Richard Lipton

Oversight

The title of this column is "Cook like a chef,” however, there are those out there who like to cook but simply do not have the title or the desire to cook professionally. These folks compete in amateur contests and fund raisers merely for the sake of doing so and for charity. They expect no reward or special recognition, but wouldn't it be nice if every so often, they actually did receive recognition for their contributions to the community.

Allow me to correct an oversight here. Recognition was given to the winners of the professional categories in the Mardi Gras Gumbo Cook-off and the same should be done for the amateur winners as well. Especially the group who helps the Special Olympics and Young Men in the SW Louisiana area in many aspects of their lives. These guys were great gumbo cooks as well.

Congratulations to the Young Men's Business Club for their award winning Quail, Wild Hog, and Deer Sausage Gumbo. I did have the chance to taste this dish and as many other dishes as I could. Believe me, they deserved first place as much as anyone. Edwin McCall, Judd Benton, Stephen Dwight, and Billy Strickland are to be commended for their outstanding contributions to both Mardi Gras and the community.

Again, Contraband Days should prove quite the exciting place for many rematches, both professional and amateur.

Fragrant Green Chicken with Lemon
Serves 2

1 onion
1 whole chicken breast
6 celery leaves
4 Tbsp lemon juice
1-1/2 Tbsp soy sauce
Lettuce leaves, for garnish
4 Tbsp cilantro, chopped

1. In a saucepan, put the onion, chicken, and celery leaves with just enough water to cover. Bring to a slow boil, cover, and simmer over medium heat, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow chicken to cool in liquid. Skin, bone, and slice the chicken into strips. Marinate the strips in 1/2 of the lemon juice and soy sauce for 45 minutes.

2. Arrange the chicken strips on a bed of lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and remaining lemon juice. Serve immediately.
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Green Olive Pesto
Serves 5

1 Cup (2 dl) green olives, stuffed
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) pine nuts
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/4 tsp salt
1 Cup (2 dl) parsley, chopped fine
1/4 Cup (½ dl) extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp parmesan cheese, grated
salt and pepper, to taste

In a food processor, puree the olives with the pine nuts, garlic, and the parsley. With the motor running, add the oil in a stream. Add the parmesan and pulse to blend the mixture well.

And, just in case you're wondering what these recipes have to do with the Gumbo Cook-off? Absolutely nothing, just a small contribution to your next feast. Bon Appetit and Erin Go Bragh

Eating Out

I have to wonder if I just never noticed or seemed to pick up the vibes restaurant personnel
give off when a single person comes into eat in their establishment. I went out on a Monday
afternoon to a very nice local steakhouse. I had gotten home and just didn't want to cook for
myself. I entered in the newly-renovated restaurant and was immediately
told to remove my hat. No problem, except for the extreme case of hat hair I had developed.

I was seated, given a menu, ordered, and waited. While waiting I saw a couple of groups come
in, be seated, told the specials of the night, and socialized with. I started to pick up the
"vibe" at that point. I received my appetizer rather hastily and still a bit cold, even though
it had a good flavor. My steak arrived shortly thereafter at the right temperature but tasting
like it came from the bottom of the barrel, all tough and grisly.
No dessert was offered and at that point in time, when the check arrived I really felt
encouraged to leave.

Hopefully, this is an extreme case and not indicative of what other restaurants do when single
people enter a restaurant. I see everything in a different light now, especially when I think
about how many people I have served and continue to serve on a daily basis. Restaurants should
not treat singles like second class citizens and, those that do, need to be enlightened. Here
is my soap box and I proudly stand on it as a single person here in Lake Charles. Join me in
insisting on good service. "We, who are single would like to feel welcome and we wish to be
treated with courtesy and good will!"

Stepping down from the soapbox now, promise. All I really wanted that night
was to be waited on and have a good steak. I write about seafood, I enjoy
seafood, but every so often, beef is good. And, next time, the beef will be
better I am sure. It is always better when you pick it out and cook it
yourself. For those of you in the beef frame of mind, here a few
suggestions for your next beefy dinner. Bon Appetit

Beef Filet with Tarragon Sauce
Serves 6

3-1/2 pounds beef fillet steak, tied (at room temperature)
1-3/4 Tbsp olive oil
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) butter, softened
3-3/4 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1/3 Cup 2/3 dl) shallots, minced
1-2/3 Cups white wine
2-2/3 Tbsp tarragon, minced
1-3/4 Tbsp heavy cream
13 cornichons, julienne

1. Rub filet with oil, season to taste with salt and pepper, and roast at 550° F (290° C) for 25
minutes, or until desired doneness. Remove and let stand 15-20 minutes, covered with foil, .
Cream the butter and mustard together. In a saucepan, mix the shallot, wine, and tarragon and
sauté over medium high heat until reduced to 1 cup (2 dl).

2. Add the cream and cornichons, reduce heat to low, and whisk in mustard mixture, a little at a
time, with any juices from the meat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. Slice filet thinly and drizzle with sauce. Serve with broccoli, turnips, and/or French
bread.
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Filet Mignon with Mustard Cream Sauce
Serves 2

Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 beef fillet steaks, 8 oz ( 240 g) each
1 Tbsp butter
1/2 Tbsp vegetable oil
salt to taste
1 shallot, minced
1 Tbsp brandy
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) whipping cream
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) Dijon mustard

1. Grind pepper generously over both sides of steaks and press in. Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter
with oil in heavy medium skillet over high heat. Salt steaks on one side and add to skillet,
salted side down. Cook until brown, 2 minutes. Salt tops of steaks, turn, and cook until
browned, 2 minutes longer.

2. Reduce heat to medium and cook to desired degree of doneness, turning occasionally, 6 minutes
for rare. Transfer steaks to heated plates and set aside.

3. Transfer drippings from skillet into small bowl. Add remaining butter to same skillet and
melt over medium heat. Add shallot and stir 1 minute. Remove from heat and add brandy. Return
to heat and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Boil until
reduced to a glaze.

4. Add cream and boil about 1 minute or until mixture begins to thicken, . Stir in mustard and
the juices from the steaks. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon
sauce over the steaks and serve immediately.
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Steak Strips with Spicy Noodles
Serves 4

8 ounces (240 g) steak, boneless
4 green onions
1 onion
4 cloves garlic
1 tsp salt
6 oz (180g) somen noodles
1 Tbsp sesame oil
6 Tbsp vegetable oil
2 Serrano pepper, halved
1/2 Cup (1 dl) beef broth
2 Tbsp soy sauce
2 Tbsp oyster sauce
1 Cup (2 dl) mint leaves
1 each lime, juice

1. Cut the steak into 3-inch by 1/4-inch (7.5 cm x 1 cm) strips. Cut the green part of the
onions into 3 inch (7.5cm) pieces and finely chop the remainder. Thinly slice the onion. Mince
the garlic. Bring 4 quarts (4 liters) water and the salt to a boil. Add the noodles and cook
uncovered over high heat, stirring with chopsticks or a fork, for 1-1/2 to 2 minutes, or until
the noodles are just tender.

2. Refresh under cold water and drain well. Transfer noodles to colander in a large bowl and
reserve. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a wok or heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add
sliced onion and chilies and stir fry 3-4 minutes, or until onion is lightly browned. Transfer
to a bowl and reserve.

3. Add 2 tablespoons oil to the wok and increase heat to high. Stir fry the steak 1-2 minutes,
or just until it changes color. Transfer the steak to a bowl and reserve. Lower the heat to
medium and add remaining oil to the wok. Add garlic and green onions and stir fry 30 seconds.
Add the noodles to the wok and heat thoroughly.

4. Add the broth, soy sauce, and oyster sauce and heat thoroughly. Add steak onion slices,
chilies, mint leaves, and lime juice; stir-fry 30 seconds. Serve the spicy somen on heated
plates immediately.

Easter Thoughts

Someone needs to explain to me the attraction of eating rabbit on Easter Sunday. In New Orleans, for Easter Sunday brunch, the biggest seller was Grilled Whole Rabbit at Mr. B's Bistro. Even growing up Jewish, I saw all the TV programs highlighting the Easter Bunny and Peter Cottontail. While I was too young to understand it then, it definitely makes no sense to me now.

Now, please don't misunderstand me. I love rabbit. Stewed, grilled, baked, broiled, or BBQ’ed, it is very good. If you go by the Warner Brothers cartoons and Bugs Bunny arguing with Daffy Duck about rabbit season vs. duck season, one would think this would be the best holiday for eating duck. Now, a nice Rabbit sausage on the menu for this day might not be so obvious, especially to the younger crowd.

Enjoy these Easter main courses. Whether you are eating duck or rabbit; substitute as you like and Bon Appetit, Happy Easter, and Happy Passover. You all thought I forgot about Passover, didn't you?

Grilled Rabbit Stew
Serves 8

2 rabbits
oil, as needed
Cajun seasoning, see recipe below**
2 bay leaves
2 tsp thyme
2-1/2 quarts (2-½ liters) chicken stock
2 tsp tomato paste
4 oz (120 g) butter
2/3 Cup (1-1/3 dl) flounder
1 lb mushrooms
1 leek, cut in 1-inch (ca. 2-3 cm) pieces
6 plum tomatoes, quartered
2 tsp thyme
4 carrots, peeled, cut in 1-inch (ca. 2-3 cm) slices
6 red potatoes, peeled and quartered
3 red onions, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

Preheat oven to 350° F (180° C)

1. Cut each rabbit in 8 equal pieces, disjointing front and back legs and removing back loin. Reserve bones. Rub rabbit pieces with oil and Cajun seasoning; grill over medium wood fire to medium rare. Brown rabbit bones in 350° F (180° C) oven. Add bones, bay leaves, and thyme to chicken stock. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to simmer. Add tomato paste.

2. Cook 40 minutes to reduce to 2 quarts (2 liters). Make blond roux with butter and
flour in one-quart saucepan*. Cook over low heat 10 minutes, stirring constantly; cool. Strain stock into saucepan; add roux to thicken. Simmer 20 minutes, skimming as necessary. Add mushrooms, leek, tomatoes, and thyme. While sauce cooks an additional 20 minutes, boil carrots and potatoes. Grill onions over low wood fire. Add carrots, potatoes, onions, and rabbit to sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and Cajun seasoning.

3. Serve in bowls with French bread.

* Blond roux: To make a blond roux, use equal parts soft butter and flour and mix to a thick paste. Add the roux a little at a time, stirring in well.

**Cajun Seasoning Mix: 6 parts salt, 1 part cayenne pepper, 1 part red pepper, 1 part paprika, 1 part granulated garlic, 1 part granulated onion, ¾ part black paprika (or black pepper)

Duck Breast with Zinfandel and Peaches
Serves 8

3 shallot, chopped
2 Tbsp butter
1-1/2 Cups (3 dl) white wine, Zinfandel
2 Tbsp prune juice
2 Cups (4 dl) chicken stock, or duck stock
Salt and pepper, to taste
8 duck breasts (meat only), cleaned
3 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 can sliced peaches

Preheated oven at 375° F (190° C),

1. Sauté shallots in butter in medium saucepan until tender; add wine and prune juice. Cook and reduce to 1 cup (2 dl) over medium heat. Add stock; reduce to 2-1/2 cups. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Brown duck breasts in oil over medium heat. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven at 375° F (190° C), 7-8 minutes, or until done. Remove and drain on paper towels. Divide sauce evenly among 8 plates; top with duck breasts and garnish with peaches. Serve immediately.

Rabbit with Squid Ink Pasta
Serves 4

2 rabbits, boned
1/2 Cup (1 dl) olive oil
1/4 Cup (½ dl) carrot, minced
1/4 Cup (½ dl) celery, minced
1/4 Cup (½ dl) onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
10 sage leaves
2 sprigs rosemary
1/4 Cup (½ dl) white wine
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 oz (120 g) squid ink pasta
rabbit bones

1. Place rabbit bones in saucepan with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Cook until lightly browned, 5-8 minutes, over medium high heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, sage, and 1 sprig rosemary. Cook 2-4 minutes. Deglaze with wine, allowing the wine to evaporate. Add 2 cups water. Boil about 30 minutes or until reduced by half; strain and discard the solids. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the rabbit with remaining rosemary until golden on all sides, about 15-20 minutes, turning as needed.

3. Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain and set aside.

4. Slice the rabbit on the bias. Mound the pasta evenly on 4 plates, top with the rabbits and the warm sauce, drizzle with remaining olive oil, and serve immediately

Convenience Foods

I have to admit that, during my college years, I deferred to foods of convenience. Frozen pizzas, mac-n-cheese mixes, and 3-minute noodles were the staples in the dorm. We had all the modern conveniences of home, but were too busy "studying" to take time out for a good meal. At least that's what we told our parents, right?

Now, more than ever before, convenience food is even more convenient. Complete meals that used to HAVE to be cooked in the oven are now done in the microwave in over half the time. Grocery stores are now "trying " to make "trendy" food such as sushi and gourmet meals in the deli. They haven't gotten it quite right yet, but I give them a "+" for effort.

It is possible to have a good meal that neither comes out of a box nor is hard to prepare. To all College and University students within earshot, enjoy these ideas for your next dorm meal, have fun, and keep learning new things. Bon Appetit

Smoked Salmon Pasta
Serves 4

1/3 pound smoked salmon
1-1/4 Cups (2-½ dl) heavy cream
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) dill, chopped
2 tsps pink peppercorn
2 tsps capers
1 Tbsp tomato paste
salt and white pepper, to taste
2 tsps lemon juice
3 drops Tabasco sauce
1 pound fettuccine
1/2 stick butter (¼ Cup / ½ dl)

1. Slice the salmon into strips, removing any bones or skin. In a saucepan, mix together the cream, 3 Tbsps dill, pink peppercorns, capers, tomato paste, salt and white pepper. Bring the mixture to a simmer over low heat; reduce until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the salmon, lemon juice, and Tabasco. Remove from heat and keep covered. Cook the fettuccine according to package directions. Drain the pasta and return to the saucepan; mix in 2 Tbsp butter until thoroughly combined. Add the remaining butter to the sauce and heat through until just melted and incorporated, stirring.

3. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss well to coat. Serve immediately
with shredded Parmesan or Romano cheese on the side.

Sesame Chicken Salad
Serves 8

16 oz (1 lb) elbow macaroni
16 oz (1 lb) vegetables, frozen
1 lb chicken, cooked and shredded
1-1/2 Cups (3 dl) scallion, cut diagonally
1/4 Cup (½ dl) sesame seeds, toasted
1-1/2 tsps ginger
1 tsp salt
1/4 Cup (½ dl) ranch salad dressing

1. Cook pasta according to package directions; drain. Rinse with cold water and drain again. Run cold tap water over vegetables in a strainer to thaw completely; drain well. Combine pasta, vegetables, shredded chicken, scallions, sesame seeds, ginger, salt, and salad dressing in a large bowl; toss.

2. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate before serving.

Garlic Oyster Chicken
Serves 4

1 Cup (2 dl) chicken breast, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsps vegetable oil
2 Cups (4 dl) snow pea pod, fresh
2 Cups (4 dl) broccoli florets
2 Tbsps Szechwan sauce
10 each mushroom, sliced
1/2 each onion, sliced
1 Tbsp sesame oil
2 Tbsps soy sauce
1 Tbsp oyster sauce
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Chop all ingredients into bite sized pieces. Heat 2 Tbsp vegetable oil over high heat. Add minced garlic, allow to slightly brown, and then add snow peas. Stir-fry 1-1/2 to 2 minutes and remove. Add broccoli and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes. Remove. Add a small amount of oil and add chicken, stir-fry 30 seconds over high heat.

2. Remove chicken and set aside. Add any remaining vegetable oil to wok and add mushrooms and onions. Stir-fry 1 minute. Return chicken and vegetables to wok, adding soy sauce, oyster sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir and simmer ingredients 30 seconds to 1 minute. Serve over hot cooked rice.

3. Sauce can be thickened in the last minute of cooking with the addition of
1 Tbsp cornstarch mixed with 3 Tbsps cold water.