Hanukkah

     The holidays bring different memories to different people. Christians, Jews, Buddhists, etc all have their memories of foods, smells, religious practices, people, etc. from their younger days. Growing up in a Jewish household has its own set of memories of both food and people.

Hanukkah, the Jewish Festival of Lights, commemorates the eight days that were spent in a synagogue with just enough oil to last one day, however, miraculously, lasted eight days. Now, that is an oversimplification of the story and, while there is more to it, children are more interested in the miracle itself, not what led up to it. Hearing this story over and over again growing up meant that I, as a child, would receive a present each day for the eight days of Hanukkah. Lighting the candles on the Menorah and singing the songs were added bonuses (at least I thought I could sing).

On the Eighth day, my family and I would go to either the synagogue and have a feast with all the other members of the congregation or we would go to my grandmother Helen's house and enjoy a meal with the family. I don't really think my grandparents kept a kosher house, but this, again, is before I knew what keeping a Kosher kitchen entailed. My grandmother, Helen - may she rest in peace - stood 4foot 1inch and had the bark and bite of a Pit Bull. She could make Gefilte Fish without blinking an eye and made the MOST scrumptious corned beef from you have ever tasted from scratch. Unfortunately, all recipes disappeared when she passed away, as she never wrote any of them down. My grandmother and my grandfather, Samuel Lipton, came from Lithuania in the 1920's, I believe, and settled in South Carolina, as did most of the people on that particular boat. They had three sons, a doctor, a lawyer, and a cobbler (shoe maker). The cobbler followed in his father's footsteps and became my father as well as the father of my brothers and sister. But, I digress, as this is merely setting the background for the size of the family gatherings.

Walking into Grandmother Helen's house was a symphony for the nose as well as the ears. Talk of what each branch of the family was up to was drowned out by the smells of Gefilte fish, Matzo Ball soup, and Brisket coming from the kitchen. The kitchen, I might add, into which no one was allowed except the cook and a curious child brave enough to venture in and not get caught. Manichevitz or Mogen David wine was served (a really sugary wine tasting just like grape juice) and the servers were bringing and removing plates as needed, making sure each course was finished before removing the plates (as instructed several hundred times by grandmother Helen).

Grandfather Sam sat at one end of the table while Grandmother Helen dominated the other end. And, when Grandmother Helen spoke, everyone remained quiet, except for Grandfather Sam, who instructed her, "Be Quiet and let them eat". This was the normal procedure - the two would bicker at each other until both began eating, which our cue to join them. While some people said grace first, we had the show first and then ate.

I look back on those days with a certain sadness, as I think most people do when they reflect upon and miss the times when they were younger. However, the realization comes upon us that we take all those experiences and pass them on to friends, family, and strangers when we interact at parties or other social gatherings. We are what our parents and grandparents have helped to make us. We, hopefully, take the good things and learn from their AND our mistakes. We have certainly come a long way from arranged marriages in the 1920's as well as the cooking methods. 

While I wish I could have written down those recipes from the "good ole’ days", I had to come up with recipes and menus that reflect current fish availability and cooking techniques. Hopefully, Sam and Helen Lipton as well as Sarah and Morris Wengrow (both sets of grandparents) can look down with a little bit of pride in what they have taught their grandson. How to take yesterday's recipes and integrate them with the techniques of today. That is the lesson and the memories I bring to the next generation of chefs/cooks. Hopefully, one day someone will write in a column about what my stories meant to them after I am gone. That person can count on the fact that I will looking upon them with pride. Here are some recipes that reflect what my grandparents imparted to me. Bon Appetit and Happy and Safe Holidays to all 

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Matzo Balls 
Serves 8 
This is a traditional soup. There is only so much you can do to incorporate new and different things to make a different matzo ball, so try this recipe which is good with chicken broth.

½ Cup (1 dl) chicken fat, rendered 
1/3 cup seltzer*1 
6 large eggs 
3 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped 
1-½ Cups (3 dl) matzo meal*2 
6 cups (1-½ Quart / 1-½ liters) chicken stock, simmered 
1-1/2 tsp salt 

In a large bowl, whisk the fat with the eggs. In a medium bowl, toss the matzo meal with the salt. Gently whisk the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. Stir in the seltzer and parsley. Cover and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. In a large pot, boil the chicken stock. Divide the dough into 12 pieces and roll each into a ball. Drop the matzo balls into the chicken stock, cover, and simmer until cooked through, about 45-50 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and serve in hot soup of choice immediately. 
*1 Seltzer is like a soda water. 
* 2 Matzo meal readily available in most supermarkets or specialty shops overseas.

Mirleton, Leek and Matzo Kugel 
Serves 8 
The matzo pieces in this recipe are dry unsalted, unleavened crackers. Any type of fruit, vegetable or nuts go well with this as well as cheese or meat. It just depends on what you like to add to your noodle kugel.

3 eggs 
2 cloves garlic, minced 
3 Tbsp warm water 
6 mirleton or chayote squash, peeled and grated 
5 pieces matzo 
6 green onions, chopped 
1 Tbsp olive oil 
2-½ tsp kosher salt 
3 leeks, diced
Preheat oven to 350 °F (180 °C)

Lightly oil a baking pan or spray with oil. In a bowl, whisk together eggs and water. Break matzo into one inch pieces. Add to eggs and toss to coat. Let stand 15 minutes, stirring often. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add leeks and sauté 2 minutes. Add garlic and mix well. Add mirleton or chayote squash and sauté 4 minutes longer. Remove from heat and stir in green onions, salt and pepper. Add vegetable mixture to matzo mix. Blend well. Spoon matzo mixture into the baking dish. Bake 35 minutes or until done in the center. Cool 5 minutes and then serve warm immediately. 

Hamantaschen 
Serves 12
Hamantaschen, a Purim cookie named for the three-cornered hat that Haman wore, is one of the favorites. This is a recipe for you to make you own Hamantaschen. 

2 cups (4 dl) flour 
1 egg
2 tsp baking powder 
2 tsp orange zest
1/8 tsp salt 
1 Tbsp Orange juice
½ Cup (1 dl) shortening 
2/3 Cup (1-1/3 dl) filling (see recipe)
1 Cup (2 dl) sugar

In a bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, beat shortening, sugar, and egg until light and fluffy. Add zest and juice and beat until incorporated. Add flour mixture, stirring well, until a smooth dough is formed. Gather dough into a ball and flatten into a disk. Chill dough 3 hours to 2 days, covered. When ready to use, preheat oven to 375 °F (190 °C).

Separate dough in half and keep the other one-half chilled. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough out to ¼ inch thickness. With a 3-inch cookie cutter, cut out as many shapes as possible. Transfer rounds to a baking sheet, 1/2-inch apart. Re-roll scrap dough and continue until all dough is used. Place 1 teaspoon filling (see recipe) in center and fold up edges to form triangles. Pinch corners together and leave filling exposed. Bake hamantaschen 20 minutes, or until pale golden brown. Cool on baking sheet then transfer to racks to cool totally. Repeat procedure with remaining dough and filling.

Date and Orange Filling 
(for Hamantaschen) 
Serves 12

1-¼ Cups (2-½ dl) pitted dates 
3/4 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp orange zest 
¼ tsp almond extract
1/3 Cup (2/3 dl) orange juice

In a food processor, blend together all ingredients. Filling should have a jam-like consistency. If too dry, pulse with water. Chill until ready to use.